​Installing Luxury Vinyl Planks
Embarking on a DIY adventure to install Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) flooring can be challenging and satisfying. This guide walks you through the step-by-step process to achieve a professionally finished floor.
While the process might seem cumbersome initially, breaking it down into manageable steps will provide manageable results, so walk on!
Getting Started
Notes:
This installation guide focuses on the actual installation of the new floor. Several other steps must be completed before the flooring installation begins, including subfloor prep, baseboards, and door frame heights. See below for instructions on how to prepare for your new floor.
Preparation:​
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Getting the size right, how to, Measure the size of your existing floor.
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Proper subfloor preparation is crucial for a successful vinyl floor installation. See, Options for preparing your existing floor. This includes:
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​Transition strip installation.
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Spacer placement.
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Removing and replacing baseboards and crown molding.
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Raising door frame.
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Existing floor types: concrete, hardwood, plywood, carpet, laminate, linoleum, vinyl.
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Depending on your subfloor and vinyl choice, you may need an underlayment. See Underlayment options for help.
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Gather and inventory your tools and supplies. Unnecessary trips to the hardware store creates major delays in your schedule. See, Tools you will need to install your floor for help.
The steps for installation are located in the tabs above; please review all of the steps several times before beginning the work.
Acclimating your Luxury Vinyl Planks
This systematic approach to acclimating your vinyl floor planks can contribute significantly to the success and longevity of your flooring installation project. This can be done while you are preparing the existing floor.
Understanding Acclimation: Acclimation is the process of allowing flooring materials to adjust to the environment in which they will be installed. This step can help to mitigate potential problems related to expansion and contraction due to temperature and humidity fluctuations.
Check Manufacturer’s Recommendations: It's crucial to check the manufacturer's recommendations regarding acclimation. Some vinyl flooring products may not require acclimation, while others might.
Timing: If acclimation is recommended, the typical period is 24 to 48 hours. However, the exact time can vary based on the manufacturer's instructions.
Room Conditions: Maintain the room's temperature and humidity levels within the range specified by the manufacturer, both during the acclimation period and after installation.
Placement: Place the unopened boxes of vinyl planks in the room where they will be installed. It's preferable to lay the boxes flat and avoid stacking them too high to prevent warping.
Spread Out the Material: If possible, spread out the material to allow for better air circulation around each plank, which will facilitate a more effective acclimation process.
Monitoring: Keep a consistent check on the room's temperature and humidity levels during the acclimation period to ensure they remain within the manufacturer's specified range.
Documentation: Document the conditions and the time duration of the acclimation process. This information could be useful in case of warranty claims in the future.
Proceeding to Installation: Once the acclimation period is completed, and you have ensured that the room conditions are within the specified range, you can proceed to the next steps of your DIY installation project.
Layout of Your Floor
Planning the layout requires a good deal of consideration and a bit of creativity to ensure that the finished floor will be both structurally sound and visually appealing.
Pattern Visualization: Before actual installation, it might be helpful to lay out some rows without securing them to visualize the pattern and ensure you're happy with the arrangement.
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Directional Choice: A common approach is to lay the flooring parallel to the longest wall in the room. This method not only simplifies the layout process but also creates a visually pleasing effect that can make the room feel larger. See figure 12 below.
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Mixing Planks: If your LVP comes in varying shades or patterns, consider mixing planks from different boxes to create a more natural, varied appearance.
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Perimeter Expansion Gap:
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Don’t forget to account for an expansion gap around the room's perimeter, usually about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. Use the spacers specific to vinyl floor installation.
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The spacer size determines the gap you will use to keep the planks away from the wall during the floor installation. After removing the baseboard, place these around the walls, touching the floor about every two feet, as shown in Figure 11 (using tape or self-stick).
Centering the Layout:
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Often, the combined width of the planks doesn't divide evenly into the room's width. This results in the final row being too narrow for the room's aesthetics or, worse, making for a difficult long skinny cut. Optimally, the planks on opposite sides of the room should be of equal width. While there is no "rule of thumb" for minimum plank width for the last row, generally, anything less than 2" inches wide could be considered too narrow. ​
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Below is a step-by-step guide to calculating the top and bottom plank widths:
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The image below (figure 12) shows an example floor plan where the room's width is 12' 2" 3/4" and the width of the planks are 5" each.
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Convert Room Width to Inches:
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Convert the room's width from feet and inches to just inches for easy calculation.
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Convert the fractions into decimals by dividing the top number in the fraction by the bottom, where 3 / 4 = .75.
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In the example, the room's actual width wall-to-wall with the baseboard removed is 146.75 inches = (12 * 12) + 2 + 0.75 ((feet * foot) + inches + decimal))
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​When you are ready to cut a plank, here is a handy guide to turn the remaining decimal back to 8ths of an inch.
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Calculate the Rows:
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Use the calculator below to determine the number of rows, the width of the last row, and, if desired, the width to remove from the top and bottom rows to make the planks symmetrical.
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Enter these measurements:
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Room Width Wo/Spacers: Enter the measured width of the room in total inches. This is the shorter of the two distances (width/length) of the room. Convert any fraction of an inch into a decimal by dividing the top and bottom numbers. ​
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Plank Width: Enter the measured walking surface of a plank, not including the extended snap-together element.
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Spacer Size: Enter the measurement of one of your spacers, the part touching the wall and floor. The calculator will double this size to account for the combined space of the top and bottom of the room.
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The Tool Calculates These:
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Room Width W/Spacer: This is the total width of the room after accounting for the spacer's width.
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Calculated Rows W\Spacers: This is the actual row count of your floor.
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Total Rows: This would be the total number of rows if all were even-width.
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Last Row Width: This will be the actual width of the last row of planks. If the row width is less than half of a plank, it's likely you need to rip-cut the first and last rows of planks.
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Top/Bottom Even, Subtract: If you don't see the message "No Adjustment Needed", you should rip-cut the top and bottom rows to the width specified. This provides an even width for the top and bottom rows.
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Print your calculations before you exit the page; they are not saved.
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Notes:
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During installation, slight variations can occur because of a smaller-than-square room, varying plank widths, and less-than-perfect cuts. Therefore, measuring and cutting as you go is wise, rather than cutting all the planks beforehand. This allows for adjustments for any discrepancies during the installation process.
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Precision is crucial when cutting the planks. Cutting the length of the plank is called a "rip" cut; cuts across the plank are called a "crosscut." The cuts must be straight and consistent to ensure the flooring looks uniform. A table or circular saw with a support table and guide is recommended to achieve clean, straight cuts. Jigsaws will work, but they require a guide and patience. While pros can scour the plank with a utility knife and snap it, you may find it difficult.
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It's important to measure twice and cut once for accuracy and to consider the saw blade's kerf (the cut width) when measuring the amount to be cut.
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Finally, pay close attention to which side of the plank you are cutting. Remove the side next to the wall they abut both planks. ​​
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Getting Started with the First Row
Installing the first row sets a solid foundation for the rest of the flooring installation. The effort invested in getting this step right can significantly impact the quality and appearance of the finished floor.
Importance of the First Row: The precision of the first row dictates the alignment for the subsequent rows. A straight first row leads to a straight and professional-looking installation. Walls can often be uneven, so it’s unwise to use them as your guide.
Determining Wall Straightness:
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Locate the room's center point by measuring both the length and width, then marking their midpoints. The intersection of these midpoints is the room’s center.
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Set up a laser level or a chalk line parallel to the direction you intend to lay the planks. Measure from this line to the wall at multiple points to check for consistency. Discrepancies in measurements indicate wall unevenness.
Perimeter Expansion Gap:
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Don’t forget to account for an expansion gap around the room's perimeter, usually about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. Use the spacers specific to vinyl floor installation.
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The spacer size determines the gap you will use to keep the planks away from the wall during the floor installation. After removing the baseboard, place these around the walls, touching the floor about every two feet, as shown in Figure 11 (using tape or self-stick).
Staggering Your Planks:
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Overlap Rule: Staggering the joints of the planks is essential for a professional look and structural stability. A basic rule is to ensure that end joints are offset by at least 8 inches from row to row (see figure 12).
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Thirds Staggering Technique: Cutting the plank measurement into thirds can provide a balanced and appealing stagger. Here's how to go about it:
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First Row: Begin with a full plank.
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Second Row: Start with 2/3 of a plank.
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Third Row: Start with 1/3 of a plank.
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Subsequent Rows: Repeat this pattern, cycling through full plank, 2/3 plank, and 1/3 plank starts for each new row.
Practice: The installation of vinyl planks can be significantly streamlined by practicing the actual flooring process, as it familiarizes you with the technique and nuances of fitting each piece securely and seamlessly.
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You are probably installing your floor in one of four ways:
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Click-Lock (Floating) System: The most popular method.
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Glue-Down Method: For high-traffic floors.
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Peel-and-Stick (Self-Adhesive): This is the easiest way.
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Loose Lay: While they come with adhesive, the backing does grip the floor.
Cutting Vinyl Planks:​
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During installation, slight variations can occur because of a smaller-than-square room, varying plank widths, and less-than-perfect cuts. Therefore, measuring and cutting as you go is wise, rather than cutting all the planks beforehand. This allows for adjustments for any discrepancies during the installation process.
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Precision is crucial when cutting the planks. Cutting the length of the plank is called a "rip" cut; cuts across the plank are called crosscuts. The cuts must be straight and consistent to ensure the flooring looks uniform. A table or circular saw with a support table and guide is recommended to achieve clean, straight cuts. Jigsaws will work, but they require a guide and patience. While pros can scour the plank with a utility knife and snap it, you may find it difficult.
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It's important to measure twice and cut once for accuracy and to consider the saw blade's kerf (the cut width) when measuring the amount to be cut.
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Pay careful attention to the orientation of the tongue and groove edges before cutting to ensure they align correctly with the adjoining planks.
Beginning Point: Kickstart your installation in a corner of the room, working from left to right. Ensure the tongue side of the plank is against the wall, leaving the groove side exposed to accommodate the adjoining planks.
Setting the First Row: Align the first row of planks with the laser level or chalk line, ensuring it’s straight. The expansion gap should be maintained between the flooring and the wall.
Securing the First Row: If the gaps are too wide for spacers due to wall unevenness, or if there’s a concern about shifting, consider temporarily securing the first row to the subfloor using a crown stapler. Staple at the very edge so that the baseboard will conceal the staples later.
Dealing with Uneven Walls: If the wall is uneven, the expansion gap may vary. In such cases, using a laser level can help maintain a straight first row despite the wall’s irregularities.
Checking Your Work: Once the first row is laid down, take a step back and check its alignment from different angles. Ensure it’s straight and the expansion gap is consistent before proceeding to the next row.
Additional Tips: If the room is particularly large, it may be beneficial to snap additional chalk lines or use a laser level to extend guidelines across the room. This can help keep your installation straight as you progress.
Installing the Rest of the Planks
The approach for the next rows provides a clear path as you advance through the room, confirming each plank is accurately positioned and securely in place for a flawless flooring surface.
Clicking Lengthwise: Begin by engaging the plank lengthwise with the previous row. Align the tongue of the new plank with the groove of the installed plank and click them together as depicted in the provided photo.
Clicking Widthwise: Next, engage the plank widthwise. Similar to the first row, insert the plank at a slight angle on the width side, then rotate it downward to click it into place. Utilize your rubber mallet to ensure a snug fit, just as you did with the previous steps.
Tightening Lengthwise Seams: Now, shift your attention back to the lengthwise seam. To tighten this connection, a tapping block will be your ally.
Tapping Block Usage: Position the tapping block carefully over the plank ensuring it aligns correctly without damaging the groove. The visual provided in your description is a good reference on how to position the tapping block accurately.
Tapping Technique: With the tapping block in place, use your rubber mallet to tap the plank, working your way down its length. This action will help to tighten the seam and ensure a seamless connection between planks.
Mastering the Momentum: Achieving the right momentum with the mallet may require some practice. A well-executed tap can result in snugly fitting seams, enhancing the overall appearance and integrity of your flooring.
Cutting Where Necessary: As you proceed, you will need to cut some planks to fit. Utilize the cutting techniques discussed in previous steps to make accurate cuts while ensuring a 1/4" expansion gap around the room's perimeter.
Progressing Through the Room: The rhythm of clicking planks lengthwise, then widthwise, and using the tapping block to ensure tight seams becomes more intuitive as you progress. Most of the flooring installation should become relatively straightforward once you've mastered the use of the tapping block, mallet, and the cutting tools.
Periodic Checks: Periodically step back and examine the alignment and seams of the installed planks. It’s easier to correct any minor issues as you go, rather than after the entire floor has been laid.
Making Difficult Cuts
Tackling the inevitable difficult cuts encountered during LVP installation. With the right tools, accurate measurements, and a steady hand, you'll steer through these challenges and succeed in a professional-looking floor.
Inadequate Preparation: Proper subfloor preparation is crucial for a successful vinyl floor installation. Lack of expertise can result in inadequate preparation, such as not leveling the subfloor correctly, which can affect the final outcome.
Flooring Under a Door Jamb:
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If the new flooring is higher than the previous one, adjustments to the door framing may be necessary.
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See the detailed article on raising a door jam.
Transitioning Flooring into the Closet:
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Transitioning the flooring into a closet while maintaining the established pattern requires meticulous measurement and cutting.
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Lay a plank in the transition area to ascertain the correct measurement for the cut needed inside the closet, aligning it with the previously laid planks to maintain the pattern continuity.
Corner Cuts:
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Cutting your plank to fit into a complicated location is somewhat challenging.
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This requires cutting the plank's contour to match the fixture/doorframe/molding, etc., and connecting with the adjacent plank(s).
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Lay the new plank on the floor against the object orientated as to how it will fit in the space after being cut. Draw the cut-out needed using a Contour Scribe tool to copy the cut area onto the plank.
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Use your saw to remove the cut area from the plank.
The Last Installation Row
Successfully installing the last row of LVP. The precise cutting, usage of a pull bar, and thorough checking of the seams guarantee a professional-looking floor.
Preparation: The final row often requires careful measurement and cutting to ensure a proper fit. It's likely that the planks will need to be cut widthwise to fit the remaining space. Refer to the layout step for measurements.
Utilizing a Pull Bar: To install the last row of planks, a pull bar is an essential tool. This tool helps in clicking the planks into place where there isn't enough space to use a rubber mallet directly.
Spacing for the Pull Bar: Ensure there's enough space to fit the pull bar, but not so much that the baseboard and/or shoe moldings won’t cover the gap later. This balance is crucial for a clean finish.
Clicking in the Last Row: Place the pull bar in the gap, hooking it over the edge of the plank. Use a rubber mallet to tap the other end of the pull bar, thus driving the plank into place, both lengthwise and widthwise.
Securing the Planks: Once the planks are clicked in place, check for any movement and ensure the seams are tight. The rubber mallet can be used to make any final adjustments.
Installing Transition Pieces
Transition strips are pivotal for a polished look and for bridging different flooring types seamlessly. This step is a structured approach to tackling the transition strips, ensuring a smooth and professional finish as you navigate the different flooring types in your space.
Selecting the Right Transition Pieces: The type of transition piece you need correlates with the flooring types you are transitioning between. It's beneficial to choose matching transition pieces offered by the flooring manufacturer for a cohesive look.
Transition from Vinyl to Tile:
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Measure the width and length of your threshold. Make sure your transition piece is wide enough.
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Begin by cutting the T-molding piece to the appropriate size. Remove the same amount from both ends for an even look.
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You may need to make a contour cut at the ends of the piece to fit the frame.
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If you are using a screw-in transition piece, align the new piece on the floor. Mark and drill the pilot holes for the screw fasteners.
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If you use an adhesive like liquid nails, glue down the T-molding, ensuring it fits snugly between the vinyl and tile flooring.
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The transition piece should click into the middle strip of the T-molding, creating a smooth transition from the vinyl to the tile.
Transition from Vinyl to Carpet:
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For transitioning to carpet, the height difference may require the use of shims to elevate the T-molding to the level of the carpet.
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Secure the shims, if necessary, and glue the T-molding on top. The transition piece should then click into place, forming a smooth bridge from the vinyl to the carpet.
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Nailing the transition track with a brad nailer and gluing the T-molding ensures a sturdy installation.
Cutting Transition Pieces: Utilize a jigsaw with a laminate blade for cutting the transition pieces to the required size. The same blade used for cutting the vinyl planks can be employed here.
Securing the Carpet: If transitioning from vinyl to carpet, ensure the carpet edges are securely fastened down. Stapling the edges back into place is one method to keep the carpet snug against the transition piece.
Review and Adjust: Review the installed transition strips, checking for any gaps or misalignments. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure a snug fit and smooth transition between flooring types.
Continuation Plans: If there are plans to continue the vinyl plank flooring into other areas, this could affect how you approach transitions, especially to carpeted areas.
Final Check: Conduct a final walk-through to ensure all transition strips are securely in place and providing a smooth transition between different flooring materials.
Future Adjustments: Remember, the transition strips can be replaced or adjusted in the future, especially if there are plans to continue with vinyl plank flooring in adjacent areas.